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DICK'S BIKE MOVIES
IN
SEARCH OF THE LANTERNE ROUGE
www.rougefilm.com
Though currently in
production short "making-of" clips can be seen on YouTube
at:
Col de Port Report
Going down the Col de Marie Blanque
Tony Hoar - first British Lanterne Rouge
Bob Roll visits Lanterne Rouge Studios
MILLAR'S
TALE
Commisioned by Jonathan
Vaughters & Doug Ellis for the Slipstream Chipotle Team Presentation
in November 2007 this 12 minute film is a frank interview with British
World Champion and one-time Yellow Jersey winner David Millar about
his fall from grace and his successful return to the peloton. The film,
broken down into two halves, can be seen on YouTube at:
Millar's Tale - Part 1
Millar's Tale - Part 2
OTHER
CLIPS
Go behind the
scenes at the 95th Tour de France as yours truly shoots footage for an
upcoming Sundance Channel documentary. Filmed in Glorious Handicam:
Adventures with Har-V & Geraldine
COOL BIKE SHOPS AROUND THE WORLD
Listed by City.
BARCELONA, SPAIN
BICICLOT
Sant Joan de Malta 1, 08018 Barcelona
(93) 307-74-75
I rented a bike here on a number of occasions while my Bike Friday was
stuck in Spanish Customs and they were always very helpful and have a decent
selection of bikes and gear squeezed into their tiny store. They close early on
Saturdays and aren't open at all on Sundays. n.b. They have two stores: the one
at the beach is basically a rental place for beach cruisers and should be
avoided.
BOURG D'OISANS, FRANCE
CYCLES ET SPORTS
Place du Docteur Faure - 38520 Bourg d'Oisans, France
(00-33) 04-76-79-16-19,
www.cyclesetsports.com
Just a kilometre from the
foot of the famous L'Alpe d'Huez CYCLES ET SPORTS in Bourg d'Oisans is located
off the main road that runs through the town - you enter through the back door
off the triangular square in the Eastern end of the village. (The main entrance
is on one of the small pedestrian streets mostly filled with T-shirt and
postcard sellers). They sell the most impressive collection of TdF-style team
jerseys and shorts I've ever seen in a bike shop and, more importantly, two
different types of matching Alpe d'Huez Les 21 Virages cycling kits that will
give you extra bragging rights on those Sunday morning rides at home.
CHIANG MAI, THAILAND
VELO CITY
177 Changpuak Road, T. Sriphum, Amphur Muang, Chiang Mai 50200
+ 66-53-410-665, velocity@thaimail.com
Kim Sinclair says: "Your typical Asian hole-in-the-wall bike shop, it is
distinguished by the fact that it also stocks 'Lightweight' components
and wheels. So, if you are touring the Golden Triangle and have a sudden
craving for a pair of $3,000 carbon wheels, you're in luck. The manager
speaks some English and is a road/track/time trial enthusiast." Not many
of those in Thailand.
DUBLIN, IRELAND
CYCLE WAYS
185, Parnell St., Dublin
873-4748
I was working in Dublin and someone gave me info on some bike shops. The
riding was great and happily I didn't have the need to visit a shop. So no
review - just info. (If you have a review please e-mail me - thank-you).
McCORMACKS CYCLE CENTRE 31A Lower Dorset St., Dublin
836-6173
See above.
MIKES BIKES
107, Patrick St., Dun Laoghaire
280-0417
See above. FLORENCE, ITALY
SCARPELLI BIKES & SCOOTERS
78, Via Palazzuolo (&Via dell Albero)
Conveniently located 5 minutes from the railway station this shop is
stocked with chunky town bikes (& scooters) but they do have
pumps and spare tires.
ILKLEY,
YORKSHIRE, ENGLAND
JD CYCLES
42a Nelson Road
Ilkley, Yorkshire LS29 8HN
01943-816-101
http://www.jdcycles.co.uk
They're located up a side road off the A65 as you come into town from
Otley and you'd be convinced, as you walk through the small arch into the old
stone yard towards their shop, that there surely couldn't be a decent bike shop
in this quiet back-water. WRONG! They've got a huge selection of mountain bikes,
more tandems than I've ever seen in one location, and some decent road and
touring bikes too. Also their selection of clothes and accessories equals that of
a good store in any major city. A real find!
LONDON, ENGLAND
ACTION BIKES
176 High Road, Chiswick, London W4
020-8994-1485
Your typical high street bike
shop - perfect for buying spares, helmets, pumps and cute trikes
with pink thingies sticking out of the handle bars.
BIKEPARK
11-13 Macklin Street, London WC2B 5NH
020-7430-0083
www.bikepark.co.uk
Bikepark was co-founded by a friend of mine so of course I'm biased but
they are a full service store where all the staff are riders. They specialize in
road machines and stock Litespeed, Merckx, Trek and Cannondale. As well as
organizing regular weekend training rides they also do training camps in Europe
and trips to some of the more interesting European events. They also have a
store in Chelsea: 63 New Kings Road, SW6 phone 020-7731-7012
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA
I.MARTIN
8330 Beverly Blvd.,
Los Angeles CA 90048
323-653-6900
I've spent a fortune here over the years and they stock an excellent choice
of biking clothes, shoes, helmets etc. I've often seen them eagerly helping casual riders to identify the machine best suited to
their needs which is a good sign. They have an excellent repair service too. I
believe they are now under the same umbrella as Helen's Cycles - see
below.
BEVERLY HILLS BIKE SHOP
854 S. Robertson Blvd.,
310-275-2453
Neighbourhood shop with a small selection of good quality bikes and a
useful place to buy a speedometer or biking shades. Good mechanics too but the
front-desk service can be a bit sketchy and I'm always a bit nervous when I seem to know
more than the guy behind the counter.
HELEN'S CYCLES
2501 Broadway at 26th St.,
310-829-1836 www.helenscycles.com
The Big Daddy of LA bike shops. They have an excellent
supply of gear and, as their selection is pretty impressive, its a great place to buy your next velo.
Despite the size of the operation the service is also very good.
(See I. Martin - above).
LUCCA, ITALY
ANTONIO
POLI
Piazza S. Maria, 42 - 55100 Lucca 0583-493-787 www.biciclettepoli.com A great bike shop, in a town that is choc-full of
bikes, featuring a notice board in the window jammed full with faded
pictures of Coppi et al and a signed pic of Cippolini behind the counter.
The vast array of bikes for sale and rental and the happy chatter coming
from the work-shop next door lets you know you're in cycling heaven
Lucca-style. If you're in Tuscany make sure you go to Lucca: it has fewer
tourists than any other Tuscan beauty spot and, thanks to Napoleon's
sister who gussied up the ramp-parts that circle the town and made them
into a gorgeous egg-shaped park, you can spin around the entire town in a
leisurely ten minutes before scooting through the cobbled streets along
with grannies and businessmen also riding by. It's such a wonderful spot
that even your non-riding better-half will be
happy.
MIAMI
BEACH, FLORIDA
MIAMI BEACH BICYCLING
CENTER 601 5th St., Miami, 305-674-0150 Having had a dreadful time renting a bike from
another bike shop up on Collins Ave. I stumbled upon this one and
instantly felt at home. The store owner fitted me for a bike himself and
set me up with a spare tube and a cage for free - well done that
man.
NELSON,
SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND
KELVIN'S CYCLES 109 Rutherford Street, Nelson, New Zealand +643-548-2851 The owner used to be the mechanic for the Kiwi bike
team and his tiny store is packed full of goodies. It's the kind of place
you wish was at the end of your street so you could pop in every weekend.
He sells his own shirts and those really cool black and white New Zealand
team cycling jerseys.
NEW
ORLEANS, LOUISIANA
BICYCLE MICHAELS 622 Frenchman Street 504-945-9505 www.bicyclemichaels.com Me and my frequent biking buddy Bruce were in town
for a shoot and we wanted to rent bikes for the day. The other place we
rang was rude and unhelpful. Bicycle Michaels was friendly and eager to
help - in the event it got too crazy to go and ride but my guess is
they're a great store. Their web-site contains the chilling reminder: New
Orleans is NOT OK yet.
NEW
YORK, NEW YORK
MASTER BIKE SHOP 225 West 77th @ Broadway NEW YORK NY 10024 212-580-2355 I was staying at
On The Ave and Master Bike was right across the street from the lobby
entrance. They rent bikes for $50 a day - we're talking really nice
roadbikes too - and Imbert, the owner / mechanic, was friendly and
helpful.
TOGA BIKE SHOP 110 West End Ave (64th St) NEW YORK NY 10023 212-799-9625 www.togabikes.com I needed a new saddle for
the Bike Friday and they were extra helpful and friendly and knowledgeable
and had a good selection. They have their own bike team which is always a
good sign. (See also Gotham Bikes 112 W. Broadway 212-732-2453). Note to
self, and you of course, the closest entrance to the bike path is at 59th
street.
NICE,
FRANCE
BOUTIE CYCLE NEWAY 23
bis, avenue Auguste Verola, 06200 NICE +33-4-92-29-10-03 Apparently close to the
airport and the N202. They do not rent bikes.
HOLIDAY
BIKES 34, avenue Auber, 06000
NICE contact@holiday-bikes.com +33-4-72-60-97-75 They're on a steep street just below the railway
station and they rent bikes suitable for a casual spin along the Promenade des
Anglais but they're not a bike shop.
PARIS,
FRANCE
GEPETTO & VELOS 59 rue du Cardinal Lemoine 75005 PARIS 01-43-54-19-95 www.gepetto-et-velos.com If you are a literary tourist their shop is
conveniently located down the road from Ernest Hemingway's house. This
is a shop which seems to specialize in repairs and renting very
French looking bikes (surprise!) with 60's technology that you could
tootle around town on - no fun stuff at all. They have another
branch at 46 rue Daubenton, phone number 01-43-37-16-17. They're open from
10am till 730pm but closed for lunch between 1 and 3 and closed all day
Thursday.
ROME, ITALY
BICI & BACI Via
Del Vimale 5, Roma 06-48.28.443 http://www.bicibaci.com Bici & Baci is over towards Rome's busy Termini
station and advertises its bike rental in all the guide books and hotel
maps. I never made it to the store but it has an excellent website and it
only seems to rent cruisers or mountain bikes but, having ridden over the
cobbles in Rome, that makes a lot of sense. (P.S. Avoid the bikes for rent
by the subway outside the Colosseum - they sit outside in rain or shine,
day in, day out and look to be in worse shape than that bike in your
uncle's garden shed.)
SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA
BAY CITY BIKES 2661 Taylor
St., & 1325 Columbus Ave., 415-346-BIKE www.baycitybike.com Clare Unwin says: "We rented two bikes from them for
a day and rode over the Golden Gate bridge and back. The regular charge is
$25 for 24 hours but we got $10 off because we were staying at a
hostel." Their site promises a good choice of machines from
round-town cruisers, to full suspension mountains and decent road bikes
and publishes rates for them all - something that Blazing Saddles (see
below) seems reticent to provide.
BLAZING
SADDLES 2715 Hyde Street @ Beach Street 415-202-8888 www.blazingsaddles.com One of those shops I walked past on a trip when I
wasn't riding. They seem to rent solid touring rides for making your way
round town.
TORONTO,
CANADA
McBRIDE CYCLES 2797 Dundas St. W. Toronto Ontario M6P
1Y6 416-763-5651 They once gave me a free water bottle on a hot day
which, I think, deserves a mention.
CYCLEPATH 1204 Bloor St.
W Toronto Ontario M6H 1N2 416-533-4481 They used to rent me brand
new bikes which was very nice of them - and deliver them to the
hotel!
VANCOUVER, CANADA
BICYCLE
SPORTS PACIFIC
999
Pacific Street Vancouver 604-682-4537 www.bspbikes.com
RECKLESS
BICYCLES 1810 Fir Street Vancouver 604-731-2420 www.reckless.ca They
have their own bike team - a good sign.
SPOKES Corner of
Georgia & Denman, Vancouver 604-688-5141 Conveniently situated near
Stanley Park Spokes only rents bikes and has very little retail stock.
But, if you're looking for a 35lb cruiser to slowly make your way through
the park, this is the place for you. Be careful crossing the
road!
STEED
CYCLES 102-1550 Marine Drive, North Vancouver
BC. 604-987-2168, www.steedcycles.com They stock a good selection of road and mountain
bikes and parts in a well laid out space. They're also open on a Sunday
morning which is useful. An Italian buying a bicycle in the shop thought I
was Marco Pantani - rather tellingly the salesman didn't know who Marco
Pantani was.
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12 INTERESTING
RIDES
1) PACIFIC COAST HIGHWAY
- SANTA MONICA TO THE ROCK - THERE & BACK Los
Angeles CA Variable distance Many riders start in Santa Monica and ride
North on Highway 1 (Pacific Coast Highway or PCH) but I prefer to drive
further up the coast before I start for two reasons. 1) The road is very
busy between Santa Monica and Malibu and due to frequent mudslides the
road can be dicey. 2) It's not very attractive - you've got banks of muddy
hills on your right and the backdoors of miles of beach-houses on your
left. So, I park just after Carbon Canyon - where there's a nice long
straight to park your car - and head north. Pretty soon you're
through Malibu and climbing the first of many undulations that build-up
your heart-rate and show off stunning views of the California coast-line.
Your first hillock puts Pepperdine U. on your right and an amazing view of
the Pacific on your left. - then it's uplill and down dale for the next 8
miles till you reach Zuma beach at which point the road flattens and the
traffic lessens. Further North, once you pass Neptune's Net, it gets even
quieter and it's just you and the road (and perhaps some sea breeze) till
you get to The Rock - you can't miss it. You've now got around 25 miles on
the clock and it's time to turn for home. Things to watch out for: 1)
Surfers changing in the bike-lane; 2) Mudslides or construction that
forces you into traffic - 2 riders were killed at one such obstruction in
August 2005; 3) Frequent canyons that will take you up steeply up into the
hills with amazing views - Mulholland, Encinal and Latigo are my
favourites. Some of these canyons are easily TdF level in grade and
length. Great training.
2) RICHMOND PARK LOOP Richmond, London, England 7
miles If you ride the Richmond Park loop
clockwise there's a moment shortly after the Richmond Gate where you crest
a hill and, though you're in the heart of rich parkland with wild deer
just a few feet away, you can see the London Eye and The City just a few
miles in the distance - wonderful. There's also a good bike path if you've
got a hybrid or a mountain bike which goes round the park outside the loop
- but the pedestrians do NOT give way to bikes. Bikepark (see above)
organize a team ride at three different levels round the park every
Saturday morning at 9am. The slowest group averages about 15mph.
3)
LAKE MOERAKI - LAKE WANAKA South Island, New
Zealand 112 miles The
longest, most extra-ordinary ride I've ever done. We did the first 6 hours
in the pouring rain and we vowed that we would get in the van as soon as
we could. We rode down a long valley away from the shore watching
waterfalls cascading loudly down towards us. We ate soggy sarnies at the
foot of the Alpine pass but moved on inside ten minutes because the sand
flies were so annoying and then grunted and moaned our way to the top of
the Haast Pass where it still poured.
 My cycling Buddy Kim at the summit of the Haast Pass. Only 4 hours till we get dry.
As we arrived on the heights beyond a marvelous
tail-wind appeared followed eventually by the sun and we scooted on
towards Lake Wanaka by which time nothing would have stopped us from
completing the journey on 2 wheels. As I recall there was but one
habitation along the entire road - a cafe where we stopped for hot coffee,
buns and chocolate. By the time we rode victorious into Wanaka we had
ridden ourselves dry. We walked into the hotel beaming only to find the
same grumpy tourist hogging the telephones that we had pissed off when we
left the hotel in Moeraki 9 hours previously!
4) BODEGA BAY - RUSSIAN RIVER - HEALDSBURG Northern California Can't
remember, 30 miles? This was the last day of
my first Backroads trip and I did most of the journey on my own. I
remember riding North on the coast road leaving Ocean Bay with just the
sound of the waves below, the breeze in the grass at the roadside and my
chain-set spinning smoothly beneath me. It was absolutely intoxicating.
Then the road turned inland and started through the redwood forests!
5)
LA MARATHON (BIKE TOUR) Los Angeles California 25 miles It starts at 6am
down on Exposition every year the day of the LA Marathon which is around
the first Sunday in March. This is the only time you'll want to cycle
through some of the tougher neighbourhoods of the city and the early wake
up call is always worth it. Like all rides of its type you'll find
Litespeeds, recumbents and tricycles riding alongside that bike from the
garden shed which hasn't seen an oil can for twenty years. People in
pyjamas wave at you from their front lawns and, though the start is always
a bit chilly, the warmth from the spectators means you turn up the finish
line with a big smile on your face.
6) LONDON TO BRIGHTON London - Brighton, England 52
miles I haven't done the ride in a while now
but I remember it being a great day out. It was once billed as the biggest
bike ride in the world and had something like 22,000 riders on it. The
number of riders was so vast they had to do staggered start times and I
recall them saying that by the time the first riders were arriving in
Brighton there were still people leaving London - thus the field was
stretched out over all 52 miles of the course. Fond memories include
seeing tandems from the Blind Owls Cycling Club passing me at speed on a
hill - the guys on the front were all sighted - the stokers (guys on the
back) were all blind. Unlike the well organised OCW Amtrak Century there
was never any organised method of getting back to London - perhaps that's
changed.
 At the
end of the London to Brighton 1984.
7) CHIANG MAI TO THE GOLDEN TRIANGLE Northern Thailand 64 miles Another day on a Backroads trip where I lost the
van - or did it lose me? I remember stopping at a small roadside cafe
which had no walls and no running water where I bought a bowl of soup (How
much rat in it? I don't know), some chocolate and a plastic bag full of
Coca Cola with a straw (they recycle the cans but don't care how much
plastic you trash the roadside with) for a buck. And then as the sun got
lower and the light turned to liquid gold I came up to the mighty Meekong
and eventually my hotel. My room was as beautiful as any I've stayed in
and there across the river on one side I could see Laos and there to my
left I could see Myanmar (Burma) - wow!
 My bike beside the
mighty Mekong River, Thailand.
8) GOING TO THE SUN ROAD Glacier National Park, Montana 11 miles You have to be
up early to do this ride because if you don't summit before 11am they'll
kick you off the road - the road is too narrow for bikes and cars. But the
early rise and the hard slog is definitely worth it. First you meander up
the narrow gorge and then, as the sun starts breaking through, you turn
back on yourself and start climbing hard. As you ride further upwards you
are presented with scores of incredible views down the valley you've just
climbed. Could it be that just an hour ago you were down there with those
toy cars? In July you will still find the road damp with melting snow and
when you reach the saddle of the pass you truly feel like you've achieved
something. If you're riding onwards to East Glacier, as we did, don't
linger too long - there are many miles ahead of you and as you turn back
on yourself to ride the last ten miles to the next hotel you encounter a
continuous and savage head-wind the like of which I've never encountered
before or since.
9) PARKER RANCH TO ROYAL WAIKOLOAN BEACH RESORT VIA
NORTH KOHALA MOUNTAINS Big Island, Hawaii 45.6 miles This ride,
which commences at an elevation of 3,000 feet in what was once the largest
cattle empire on American soil, starts off with a blissful down-hill and
eventually drops you to sea-level with amazing views of the coast to your
left and the rolling sheep pasture on your right. Once down in the little
town of Hawi you turn over your left shoulder and start working your way
back along the coast through the moonscape-like lava fields.
10)
SAGRADA FAMILIA TO MONTJUIC Barcelona, Spain 6 miles While shooting in
Barcelona in 2002 I would escape at the weekends through the streets and
pedal furiously past Gaudi's Casa Battlo, down towards the railway station
(where I later shot a video for Darius) and then start the climb up
Montjuic to top out with an extraordinary view over Barcelona. No matter
how much pressure I felt under from the movie I could happily sit and look
at the view and forget all my troubles as I looked at the Sagrada Familia
where I had started my ride and out to the sparkling Mediterranean which
looked so inviting.
11) L'ALPE
D'HUEZ Bourg d'Oisans - L'Alpe d'Huez, France 14.1 km = approx 8.8. miles One of the mighty mountain-top finishes of
the Tour de France and I defy you to find 8 miles of road with more famous
names painted on it than this one. The bad news is that the first mile or
so is absolutely the worst part of the climb. The good news is that the
approach from town is quite flat and the views as you climb the mountain
are just spectacular. As you start to sweat bullets and wonder why you
journeyed half way across the planet to do this to yourself you'll realise
that you're pedalling amongst cyclists of all colours, creeds and
abilities trying to put this valhalla of climbs into their memory banks.
How the real racers stand on their pedals and race up this after 180 km of
racing is just beyond me. Marco Pantani's record time is 37:35 minutes -
mine was 2 hours 20 minutes! But in my defence I had jet-lag, I'm 20 years
older than Pantani and I was taking pictures.
 Halfway up l'Alpe d'Huez,
July 2003. (photo by Andy
Murray).
12) MONT
VENTOUX Boudoin - Mont Ventoux, France 22 km = approx 13.7 miles There's a Provencal proverb which says: "You
don't have to be mad to go up the Ventoux, but you're mad if you go back."
You start in the gently undulating Provence countryside and look at that
gentle giant of a slope (which appears quite easy) over to your left.
About 5 km out of Boudoin you make a sudden sharp turn and you enter the
Bedoin Forest and the gates of hell. As you cycle up through the
stunted trees of the foothills you notice the kilometre markers going from
8% grade to 9% to 10% and then 11.something %. It's hot, it's winding,
it's unending and it's really dull. There are no cute mountain views or
picturesque little buildings as you grind upwards, just piles of empty
gel-packs by the road-side where other fools have trod. As you reach the
one usable building on the hill (Le Chalet Reynard - a cafe open all year)
you swing to the left again and you're out of the trees and amongst the
endless vista of white stones that famously cap the mountain. You have 6
km still left to go and please try and do this part on a day with no wind.
1km from the top you'll pass the famous Tom Simpson memorial on your right
and you'll realise how close he was to completing the climb. At the top
(1912 metres) you've got one heck of a view - I looked down on planes
flying past. In his book about Tom Simpson William Fotheringham famously
notes that you have travelled, in climatic terms, from Provence to Lapland
in just over ten miles. Louison Bobet, who conquered it in the 55 Tour has
said: A son at the summit of Mont Ventoux is not a sight to show his
mother.
 On-top of Mt.
Ventoux July 2003. (photo by Andy
Murray)
I don't think
I'll ever do Ventoux again. It took me three hours and I had to stop about
20 times! (Oh yeah I cheated too - I rode the last 6km first, took a break
for lunch, waited for the temp to dip below 96 degrees and then did the
first bit. If I'd done it in order I don't know if I'd have made it.) At
either end of the ride I reccomend the Pasta Carbonara at the Portail de
L'Olivier - the restaurant on the left of the roundabout as you leave town
to start the climb to Ventoux.
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7 CALIFORNIA CENTURIES
TOUR DE PALM
SPRINGS Early
February
The
course takes you North into the wind farm you see from the 10 Freeway and
then in a large clockwise loop that takes you south towards Palm Desert
before you turn North and hug the mountains on your way home. It can be a
cold start in the morning and as someone who hates headwinds (don't we
all?) I question the logic of riding a century that goes through a wind
farm! However I've ridden it four times and been lucky with the wind -
I've heard stories though. The directions on this ride are questionable -
I lost my way three times as did a lot of other riders. Apparently this
pic was taken right on top of the San Andreas fault! Difficulty 5, Course 5. (Difficulty probably higher
if that fault buckles!).
SOLVANG CENTURY
Early March
The big brother by which all other
California centuries are judged. Very well organised The route starts and
finishes in Solvang and does a clock-wise loop that takes you close to the
coast at Lompoc and then Northwards through Vandenberg Air Base. There's
two hills which will scupper first-timers but just keep in a low gear and
it's over quite soon. However hard I try I always bonk about 80 miles in
which is a shame on the beautiful home straight. Good to know: it can be
freezing at the start (literally) and sweltering in the afternoon (high
80's) - how do you dress for a bike ride like that? Book your hotel room
NOW! Difficulty 7, Course 8.
WINE COUNTRY
CENTURY Early May
The most beautiful century I've ever done
despite having to ride myself dry three times during the course of the
day. Ride starts in Santa Rosa, heads West to Occidental, North to
Guernville, doubles back on itself and goes North to Lake Sonoma before
coming home through the Alexander Valley. Beware there's one hill in the
woods somewhere which is Ventoux-type tough - though about 21km shorter!
Difficulty 7, Course 9½..
CRUISE THE
CONEJO Early
May. (Confession: I've only done the metric). You
start in Thousand Oaks, go due West through Hidden Hills Valley (?), which
is the nicest part of the ride, and then enjoy a glorious freewheel down
towards Point Hueneme...which means you have to somehow climb back to the
starting point. The Last half of the course is very dull. Difficulty 5, Course 4.
SAN DIEGO CENTURY Early May The ride
starts within 5 minutes of the San Diego Freeway and takes you on a couple
of inland loops - the first is green, rolling and lakeside - the second is
dusty and climbing and includes a circuit of a rather smelly plateau out
by Ramona. If you like a century with lots of hills, a Purple Monster,
plenty of ladies in your peloton and many traffic lights you have come to
the right place. But if you expect your rest stops to have peanut butter
and jelly sandwiches then you'll need to go elsewhere. Difficulty 7½, Course 5
COOL BREEZE
CENTURY
Early August
Starting in Ventura you go
North up the coast and eventually turn inland at Carpenteria and climb a
long hill which takes you up and around the back of Santa Barbara towards
Goleta. Lunch at half way means that, with the exception of that hill, you
retrace your steps pretty much all the way South even stopping at two of
the SAG stops on the way home. I hate that bit where you cycle in the slow
lane of PCH - riding with semis hurtling past about 20 inches from my left
elbow gives me the willies. Book early for a decent hotel room. Difficulty 6, Course 6.
AMTRAK CENTURY
Early September
Excellently organised by the Orange County
Wheelmen the ride starts you off in a non-descript part of Irvine (which
is saying something) and takes you to the coast and then South along the
Pacific Coast towards San Diego - and of course as you're continually
riding South it's down-hill all the way! Since 9/11 the trip no longer
side-steps through Camp Pendleton and now takes you for a very dull step
along the beach parking lot and a very dangerous spell along the 5
freeway! It's an easy century and quite unusual in that it's NOT a loop:
the first lucky 1,000 riders to apply get a special train to take them
back to Irvine at the end of the day - hence the moniker. Book early, the
tickets go fast. Difficulty 5, Course
5.
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CYCLING
FILMS
BREAKING AWAY The movie that
brought cycling to the big screen, broke the careers of Dennis Quaid and
Daniel Stern wide open and even won an Oscar for best screenplay. A
working class teen in Bloomington Indiana is crazy about cycling and
dreams about life in the peloton while his buds spend the summer
dreaming about balling the chicks over on the university campus and not
growing old. As the story develops resentment boils to the surface: Quaid
frets about his doomed football career; Dennis Christopher, as Mike the
cyclist, worries about going to university while his father fumes at his
weird eating habits, his fondness for Italian music and that he shaves his
legs. Is it the best movie about cycling ever made? I hope not. Is it the
best movie ever made with cycling in it? Hardly a big genre - and the
answer is still probably no. But it does the job, is directed by the guy
that did Bullitt, and perfectly captures the feeling of a long hot summer.
Dick says: Give it the points jersey
for the neat Campagnolo hats but hiss at it loudly and give it the lantern
rouge because they put the image of the rider on the DVD box the wrong way
round so that the chain and gear-set are on the left side of the bike!
Favourite scene: "No 'ini' foods!"
Interesting trivia: The 'too good to
be true' one-guy-wins-a-team-race concept that ends the movie is based on
a true story. American Flyers, the other studio picture about bicycle
racing, was also written by Breaking Away's writer Steve Tesich.
THE FLYING SCOTSMAN The biopic of Graeme Obree: terror of the
velodrome and self-taught bike builder who was much feared by washing machines
throughout the land. For a while there's a sense that Mackinnon's movie
could do for cycling what Local Hero did for desolate Scottish fishing
villages but soon it becomes apparent that the film will never get to
grips with Obree's defining trait - his overwhelming depression.
Supporting crew Billy Boyd, Laura Fraser and Brian Cox are all excellent as
manager, wife and mentor, but no matter how hard they pedal they can't pull
this pic back to the peloton.
HELL ON WHEELS
(Hollentour) Atmospheric and intense look at the 2003 Tour de
France and T-Mobile sprinter Eric Zabel in particular with some of the
most beautiful cycling footage I can ever remember seeing. Sadly, for us
and the film-makers, EZ comes a cropper early on in the race and, with
Petachi burning up the pavement, there are no magic, winning moments from
Zabel to be had. The good news is that this results in disarmingly frank
ruminations from EZ about whether he’ll make it to Paris or even over the
next mountain. The white elephant in the room during all of this is the
fact that T-Mobile regular Jan Ullrich, now riding with Bianchi, is
actually doing rather well in the tour and that some American guy is
wearing yellow a lot. Eventually there's no escaping that the Tour isn't
about Eric and the camera is forced to spend some time watching Lance and
Jan battle it out in the wet and slippery final time trial. Dick says: Despite the wound up to 11 score this
is the film Overcoming and The Quest wanted to be. The photography is
stunning and the film nobly stays clear of behaving like a two hour
T-mobile commercial. It could however have been 20 minutes
shorter.
OVERCOMING As Lance
pedalled inevitably to win #6 Tomas Gislason and crew quietly crept aboard
the CSC bus and followed Basso, Julich, Sastre and co. everywhere apart
from the toilet. If you wanted a chance to look inside the heart &
soul of of a bike team, and hear bikers whining about their mechanics,
this is as close as humble bikers like you & me are likely to get.
It's short on biking thrills but full of personal drama and emotion and
nary a talking head in sight: this is a film about what happens inside a
team before and after the race. Team boss Bjarne Riis is certainly
impressive dishing out instructions, encouragement and criticism in at
least four languages and yet he often seems vulnerable and introspective -
not quite the stern, confidant leader you might expect. Dick says: A must see if only for the awesome
footage on the bonus disc of Jens Voigt riding his arse off and then
losing his cool when he's unjustly criticized by T-mobile for helping
Lance.
PRO Jamie Paolinetti
and crew descend on Philly to shoot the Wachovia USPRO Championship (2003
I think) and it's certainly refreshing to watch a bike race without
hearing Liggett, Sherwen & Roll trot out their increasingly overused
descriptions. Paolinetti & crew do a fine job of setting up the race
and manfully try to add some tension but, though all the players want to
wear that gaudy jersey real bad, many of the riders either come across
like friendly surf dudes or are in dire need of a powerful charisma
injection. Suddenly the intensity and class brought to the table by Lance,
Mario et al seems sadly missing. And then there's the race which goes
round and round in circles for hours - no amount of cleverly placed music
cues or dramatic commentary from Mr. Deep Voice can hide the fact that
there are too many sideburns in the peloton and that it's going to come
down to a field sprint at which point you wish that Liggett & co. had
been invited after all. Dick says: In the end
the film-makers were outdone by the event itself though you've got to give
them the points jersey for trying. Someone please give them the cash to go
to Europe and shoot something there. www.prothemovie.com
THE QUEST Let's
face it there aren't a lot of films about cycling and you want to give
full support to any piece of work that tackles a grand tour - in this case
the 2003 Giro d'Italia. But there's no escaping the fact that The Quest is
full of talking heads and is completely lacking in any kind of tension no
matter how frantic the voice-over gets - and why reveal the result of the
race in the opening moments? You have to concede that the only way to
create a mezmerizing piece of work about a race that crosses Alpine passes
is to get the kind of coverage we are used to seeing on the box and
inevitably director Greg St. Johns has to resort to TV footage for help.
Dick says: The long-winded interviews with
every member of the Saeco team turn this noble enterprise into a 104
minute commercial for Cannondale and Italy's famous red-shirted team.
Shame.
ROAD TO
PARIS You know in your heart of hearts
that if you'd ever had the chance to go and watch Lance prep for Le Tour
and hang with U.S. Postal that you'd have spent more time with the guys on
the bus than you did with Lance. Road To Paris, which judging from
its production credits was originally envisioned as a 52 miinute Nike
commercial, almost busts this preconception and provides some intriguing
moments with Lance as he defies both the weather and Johan Bruyneel and
keeps on riding. Dick says: This DVD, with the
mandatory out-takes, was probably the template on which the Lance
Chronicles were modelled. This is infinitely better.
16,000 FEET ON A
FRIDAY Movies don't come lower-tech than this
one. Shot entirely on an Elph digital camera this 40 minute gem was made
by Lynette Chiang as she rode over the world's highest paved road in Peru
with RAAM dude Ron Haldeman and some other greying pedallers who never say
a word. Their goal is to deliver some food to an orphanage in the heart of
the jungle before turning around and cycling all the way back again.
Chiang is irrepressible and her eager enthusiasm captures moments that a
more thoughtful film-maker would never achieve. Dick says: It's a travelogue, a glorified
what-I-did-on-my-holidays, and proceeds from the DVD go to the orphanage;
it certainly makes you want to get on your bike and go somewhere RIGHT
NOW! Available from www.galfromdownunder.com
A SUNDAY IN HELL They say
it's the best film about cycling and they may be right. It's certainly the
most atmospheric. Who knew that a lingering shot of an empty parking lot
somewhere outside Paris at dawn could be so mesmerizing? Here we are at
Paris Roubaix in the golden age of cycling: Merckx is on form, the riders
all wear those woollen jumpers that we now think are so cool and there are
no ear-pieces and stylish team buses - the riders arrive in their own cars
with their bikes strapped to the back. But what seems most bewildering is
that, with less technology at his disposal than current TV folk, director
Jorgen Leth has captured the intensity, the passion and the shear speed of
the cyclists and, when he cuts footage of the peloton moving through
sun-blessed trees to cello music, the shear beauty of the sport. Dick says: The chanting monks singing
"Paris-Roubaix" over and over may be crap but next time you tune in to the
tour perhaps you should bang some Mozart in the hi-fi and give Liggett,
Sherwen et al the early bath. (Footnote - like every other cycle-race film
even Leth has to eventually lower himself and use TV coverage at the
end!)
THE TOUR BABY In 2000 an American cycling fan zips across the pond
to follow the Tour and decides to buy a video camera just before he
leaves. Before you can say Allez Lance! he's turned into a director and,
like Survivorman, is turning the camera on himself all over France as he
follows the Tour. During the course of his trip he somehow manages to get
up close and personal footage of Robin Williams, Miss France, Lance,
Tyler, George and even gets to the point where Messrs Liggett and Sherwin
are waving at him rather than the other way around. The man's French
accent is appalling but he certainly is bold and he uses the film to raise
over $150,000 for Lance's Livestrong Foundation for which he deserves a
hearty salute. However...Dick says: If you're
going to stand in front of a camera and make a film about anything but
surfing you might want to examine how wise it is to say Awesome and Dude
over and over again.
WIRED TO WIN
(IMAX) Bad news: W2W is not really a
cycling movie at all - more of an educational film that shows how your noggin computes
and sends and receives signals interespersed with 5 storey high shots of rolling
French countryside during the Centennial Tour. The original plan involved
following Tyler Hamilton through the '03 TdF and the film-makers must have
laughed themselves silly when Tyler fell off his bike at the end of
stage 2, wrapped bandages around his shoulder and valiantly carried on towards
Paris winning a stage and baskets of bravery medals along the way. And then
it all turned to crap
when Tyler was booted out of the sport for blood doping. Baden
Cooke has been
substituted as the rider-to-watch and this late subtitution manifests itself in coverage
that was clearly shot long after the Tour was over and numerous takes where the camera
follows a CSC shirt and not an FdJ one. In the end you just wish the
animation of neurons flashing away in a sea of infinite blue goop would
just go away so you could see more of that delicious French countryside
baking in the sun.
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14 CYCLING
BOOKS
BOBKE II
- Bob Roll See him on TV and Bob
Roll comes across as a balding, joker with a wild line of aphorisms
and hand gestures. (My favourite describing another winning sprint finish
by Mario Cippolini and his team: Mario Speedwagon). When you discover he
has ridden every classic road and Mountain Bike race in the book you
reassess your opinion fast. By the time you've read the book you realise
he is the kind of guy who is the bricks and mortar, the soul, of any
civilised society or club that you might consider joining. And when it
comes to riding he suffers just like everyone else, if not more so. This
diary recalls all the ups and downs and is full of personal memories of
the greats of his era: Hampsten, Armstrong , Hinault and many more. And
his similes are pure genius: "As nervous as a balloon in a pin factory."
And "as spastic as a Devo guitar solo."
FRENCH
REVOLUTIONS - Tim Moore Lazy English
scribe and Tour De France-watching couch-potato takes it upon himself to
purchase a velo and waltz around the 2,500 mile course six weeks before
the pros give it a whirl which, with little planning and no training, is
either incredibly brave or bloody daft - actually both. Mr. Moore then
takes it upon himself to out-Bryson Bill Bryson but, whereas Bryson
usually connects with the place he's visiting, Moore's journey is mostly a
solitary venture and the book suffers as a result. However there are some
hilarious moments and some great TDF anecdotes and trivia and the final
page is a corker.
THE HANDSOMEST
MAN IN CUBA - Lynette Chiang Imagine the
concept - small lady on folding bike rides around third world country with
a good map but a terrible sense of direction. She also has five loaves, no
fishes and a collapsible black dress that is apparently good at the beach
or at dinner. She has just a vague idea of where she plans to go and she
does it all on her own. What she discovers is the warm heart of a nation
that perhaps does not match our preconceptions as she pedals uphill and
down dale. It sounds like enormous fun and makes you want to set off
on your own adventure right away. Dick says:
Lynette has a Bike Friday too and if you think you've done
some riding you should see where she's been! http://www.galfromdownunder.com )
IN
HIGH GEAR - Samuel Abt Abt is a writer whose style is
economical and spare yet also consistently elegant and witty. Reading this
fascinating collection of essays, ending with Greg Lemond’s amazing 8
second victory over Laurent Fignon in the 1989 TdF, one can’t help but
conclude that the super-sensational byte-heavy style of journalism
that pollutes the world today is just a tawdry replacement for such
considered work. Example (while talking about how many
Dutchmen have been victorious at Alpe d'Huez): "Some fine climbers come
from a country as flat as a punctured tire." ...Love it.
INSIDE THE PELOTON
- Graeme Fife I remember Graeme Fife
as a bespectacled young school-master who played guitar on a rocking
version of High Heeled Sneakers my first band played at a school concert.
Imagine my surprise when I discovered that he'd written not one but a
number of books about the world's most beautiful sport of which Inside the
Peloton is my favourite. Each chapter is based around a cycling
personality - some well known (Bernard Hinault) some not (Charlie
Holland), some brilliant (Eddy Merckx) some a little less so (Paul
Sherwen) - and, having established who the chapter is about, he digresses
at length to talk in great detail about the history of the TdF and shares
his memories of some of its most exciting moments. His writing is
infectious and he comes across, not as a frustrated rouleur who is still
wearing lycra at an age when he should know better (like me), but as an
enthusiastic supporter with panniers and a steel bike who has ridden just
about every col the Tour has to offer - which he has. Dick says: If you're interested in the
history of cycling and Le Tour de France I have yet to find a better place
to start (and end) your search.
LANCE ARMSTRONGS’ WAR –
Daniel Coyle Coyle, a former editor of Outside,
moved his family to Girona in 2004 so he could follow LA on his pursuit
for TdF win #6. Coyle certainly admires his subject but luckily for us is
professional enough to keep some distance so that he can view Armstrong
and his acolytes with a certain amount of dispassion as the Postal machine
gears up for its final Hurrah. Armstrong emerges as a complex and
uncompromising man who may be admirable but not particularly likable. The
book’s charm lies in its dry humour and entertaining chapters on the other
players: Vinokourov, Ullrich and Floyd Landis: “…for these hard-eyed
boys…the hope lies in the idea that pouring all your energy into a bicycle
can raise you up, make you different than you are.” Dick says: I couldn’t put the damn thing
down.
MOODS OF FUTURE
JOYS : Alastair Humphreys Once upon a
time a guy from Yorkshire dumped his girlfriend, jumped on his bike, and
set off to ride around the world. 46,000 miles and 4 years later he gets
back home again though this volume only gets him as far as Capetown. Sadly
it appears that no one wanted to publish his memoir so, like the
bike-ride, he had to do it all by himself. The book is short on details
like how many punctures he got, whether he actually ever spoke to his girl
again or hooked up with that Siren on the beach in South Africa but,
despite his prostestations, it's well written and sits right up there
with Theroux or Bill Bryson. Dick
says: Any guy who can cycle across a country, let alone a
continent, using a toothbrush to change gear on a broken bike deserves
some kind of brightly coloured jersey. The follow up, Blue Mountains, is
on the way and, in a friendly e-mail, AH warned me: Get ready for Bolivia
- 15 punctures in one day! www.alastairhumphreys.com
ONE MORE KILOMETRE AND
WE'RE IN THE SHOWERS - Tim Hilton British art critic and child of communist parents
from Solihull Tim Hilton makes an unusual cycling fan - especially as he
concludes in his book that most cyclists have working class rather than
intellectual roots. His rambling essay starts out in his father's
garden shed and ends in a review of forgotten English track cyclists and
place-to-place riders who pedalled furiously from Lands End to John O'
Groats. In the course of his reminiscences he reveals much about cycling
that's been long forgotten - example: an ASP bicycle is 'Assembled from
Spare Parts.' He explains the mythlical heart and the noble soul of
cycling and, when you are finally wooed by his elegant prose, you realise
how limited most cycling journalism really is. He notes "It seems to me
that an earthbound mortal is closest to man-powered flight when he is on a
good racing bicycle." On the Hell Of The North: "Today's witness of
Paris-Roubaix cannot live in the present, however gripping the race may
be. He will see the slums of the industrial revolution, battlefields and
cemetries, the wretchedness and despair of those who scratch their living
from the soil. No other sporting event has this kind of resonance." My
favourite comment is his least profound one: "Black bikes always look
heavier than in fact they are."
The finest passages occur in the middle of his book
and detail the classic feuds between Gino Bartali and Fausto Coppi as they
clambered over the rough mountain roads of Europe - heroic fighters in the
blissful days after the war. His descriptions of their battles and other
feats between feuding cyclists resemble exciting descriptions of noble
battles and crusades.
Whether intended or not his tome is a lonesome
collection of wistful memories of what it was like to be a cycling fan
when Coppi was still alive and carbon fibre and Lance Armstrong still
hadn't been invented.
Interesting
trivia: He reveals that Samuel Beckett the playwright visited the
famous Velodrome d'Hiver in Paris (where many Jews had been collected in
the war before being dispatched to the camps) to watch the famous Parisian
track cyclist Roger Godeau. He asked the young autograph hounds outside
what they were doing. "On attend Godeau" they replied. We're waiting for
Godeau.
PUT ME BACK ON MY BIKE:
IN SEARCH OF TOM SIMPSON - William Fotheringham Quite simply the most
compelling book about cycling I've ever read. WF sifts through the
misconceptions, the memories and the facts to discover what Tommy Simpson
was really like - and it seems he was a lovable, passionate, determined
man who also became reliant on a vicious cocktail of pills. However what
emerges is a very different world than today's glamorous and professional
peloton. When he died Simpson was the only professional on his team and
rides in excess of 340 miles in a day weren't uncommon! What is more the
Tour de France rules forbad riders more than 2 bidons during a stage
(water was not dispensed from team cars as it is today) and some trainers
thought that drinking more than two bottles in a six hour stage was a sign
of weakness. Also bear in mind that the '67 tour was 1,000 miles longer
than today's paltry 2,500 mile jaunt!
THE QUOTABLE
CYCLIST – edited. By Bill Strickland A
book for the bathroom full of homilies that will inspire you on and off
the bike. Dick says: It’s
interesting to note how many non-riders see the bike as a confusing, ugly
machine whereas all riders seem to fall into two categories – those who
are entranced by the zen-like rewards cycling brings and those who are
convinced that in cycling, like life, all rewards are the result of
considerable pain and suffering.
THE RIDER - Tim
Krabbé Krabbé
describes himself as a competitor in the fictional Tour de Mont Aigoual
and he uses the 137 kilometres of the race as a template, not only explore
the emotions of a rider as he competes, "Nothing hisses quite so sweetly
as a rival's puncture," but also to look back over the important episodes
of his athletic life. Like watching every mile of a 100 mile stage race in
which much of the journey is about cranking the pedals and keeping an eye
on one's opponents, Krabbé's book is interesting for its wry observations
and details rather than its broad scope. For instance: "Pulling the
pace line wasn't (Despuech's) favourite pastime, and he couldn't climb -
his speciality was the sprint for sixth place." In the end you suspect the
journey would have been more fascinating if he'd been less ambitious in
the scope of his book and just kept to a more conventional approach
peppering it with the kind of delightful details, such as the mysterious
rider from Cycles Goff, he is obviously so adept at.
ROUGH RIDE - Paul Kimmage Kimmage is an honest and decent man who dared to
break the cyclist’s code of omerta and openly discuss doping within the
sport – for which his honesty was rewarded with banishment. Pictures of
this stocky man on his bike in the 80’s suggest an athlete whose work was
all heart – for him this banishment must have been cruel and unusual
punishment. His view is that dopers, and those that collude with them,
have destroyed the beautiful sport - a sad counterpoint to David Millar’s
idea that there’ll be dopers and cheats as long as there is competition.
Dick thinks: The truth is that most
all cyclists suffer as they ride and, in this excellent tale, it is clear
that Kimmage suffered as much, if not more, than most.
WE MIGHT AS WELL WIN – Johan Bruyneel w.
Bill Strickland This famous Belgian rode the
Tour de France, won a couple of stages and once wore the Maillot Jaune,
before retiring from the bike and becoming the most successful Directeur
Sportif in history. JB is a master tactitician who can read a race better
than anyone in the peloton – just ask him – and consequently his book is
more of a smug management seminar in self-motivation than you’d like and
sports such exciting chapter headings as “Find A Victory In Every Loss.”
Isn’t this the kind of phrase you’d find badly scribbled upon a white
board outside the conference room of a cheap hotel on a European
ring-road? Dick wonders: Is
this why Lance’s 7 wins were ultimately inevitable, mechanical and
somewhat passionless affairs: the world’s most beautiful sport distilled
into a dull, regional business meeting?
THE YELLOW JERSEY
- Ralph Hurne Terry Davenport is a lazy,
womanizing man who, despite his promise to marry the owner of a Belgian antiques shop,
frequently spends most afternoons banging her daughter. But wait! It gets worse!
He is also a retired racing cyclist. One day Terry, who is now chasing another piece of
skirt, agrees to come out of retirement and ride another Tour de France. As
'any fule kno' banging babes, drinking heavily in Belgian bars and lazing
around the back of an antiques shop is not the ideal training regimen for
the world’s toughest bicycle race. If you’re a bike nut like me you wish
the Desperate Househusbands bit was shorter and the Tour de France
bit were a whole lot
longer. Dick says In that small
sub-section of contemporary literature entitled Gripping Pieces of Fictional TdF
Drama this is right up
there with the best of them.
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